Monday, December 7, 2015

Martha Stewart does not live here.

 Readers, I make a lot of muslins. 
Meniere's des Muslins
I recently embarked upon a stash and remnant tidying tear about Studio Savage.  It was time to deal with the Elephant in the Middle the Room. Maybe The Beast that Grows Exponentially would be more appropriate. Let's face it, we all get there no matter how hard we try not to. The fashion fabric stash lives in its own little sewing closet in the house - much the size of a generic coat closet - organized via a hanging closet organizer, (drawers & shelves) which does the trick for the most part. (Do yourself a favor and Spend the Money - these are absolutely life changing. I have one in every closet.) Granted, my stash isn't large in comparison to some I've read about.  I have a hook on the closet door exterior to hang UFOs, mending, ironing,etc.  Bet you have one, too.  The big work table, muslin making and muslin stash storage takes place in the annex (see below), with remnants of everything tending to end up strewn about wherever the car, laundry and bird seed isn't.  
Betty the Miata-O-Matic abhores clutter
Overall, everywhere was looking a bit thrashed. So I did that thing where you just Dump It All Out in a Pile and grab a shovel.  Being the Mavin of Managed Messes that I am, my foreplanning consisted of these:
Pay attention:  The operative words are "Hefty" and "Jumbo"
To bring your work space into submission, you will need:
2 gallon size zipper bags to place cut projects in for the stitching queue
30 gallon size CLEAR tie-top trash bags 
1 foldy-type binfound amongst my garage shelves
1 existing flippy-top foot operated bin
1 existing old laundry carrier binnish-type thing
1 ruthless attitude

I was brutal in my decision making process and you must be, too, or The Beast is never tamed.  Studio Savage is of limited square footage, so prudence is a virtue.  Fill that bag, sit on it, tie it off and toss in the boot for drop-off on the next errand day.  One bagfull not enough for you to warrant the gas usage? Pfft - get thee to thine clothes closet and give it thy stinkith eye.  Shed no tears, show no mercy.  

To Recycle Fabric Scraps:  Line a too-small-to-use remnant flippy-top bin (with foot operated lid lifter pedal - now that's thinking) with a 30 gal. clear CinchSak.  Every time you cut a piece too small to use, flip the lid and give it the heave-ho.

Lift, Remove, Label, It's Outta Here
Flooring from WalMart Sporting Goods section.  Who knew?!
When full, pull up by the ties, remove, shove a piece of paper clearly labeled "FABRIC SCRAPS" into the bag and then (this is important, pay attention) give it to the Goodwill. Yes, they take scraps if in a clearly labeled clear bag .  They shred and re-use them for insulation or something.  Anyway, they DO take them.

So, Dear Readers, it's time take back your work area and wack it into submission.

Betty says: "Be the Dominatrix of your Dominion."
This is your domain, where both you and order reigns supreme.  So be like Betty.  Or Else.

What lay beneath:  During my tidying I unearthed a UFO which is now on the aforementioned UFO closet door hook and a scrap of some lovely blue mystery fabric just big enough to make a Summer skirt.  Just in time for Fall.  
I used Vogue 7805 (OOP) to get me started.

Pattern Description:  Vogue 7805 Misses/Petite Skirt and Pants. Semi-fitted, straight skirt or pants have mock fly, front patch pockets/carriers combo, skirt back vent.  I made the skirt with some changes.

Pattern Sizing:  12, 14, 16   I made a 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Pretty much.  Except that Changes I Made part.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Yes, but do mark carefully and take your time during construction.  The pocket/belt loop/top stitching does take patience for a presentable finished make.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  It's pretty easy to make.  It's an excellent pattern choice for stretch woven summer skirts.

Fabric Used:  Mystery super super stretchy woven unearthed in the above-mentioned stash tidying.  I had about 3/4 yrd., 54" wide.  Pre-washed on cold and low dryer, exited the dryer fairly unwrinkled.  Seam puckering is from the Love/Hate relationship of my Pfaff 2036.  I used a super-fine Microtex needle for general construction which seemed to lessen the puckering somewhat.  I used a Janome Coverstitch to hem it so the hem would have some give as well.  

Lining is from an old pair of re-fashioned size 14 RTW wide legged trousers (see, I do save everything). It's very sheer and lightweight.  It's not a stretch lining per-say, but was so spongey it had a lot of give to it.  

Pockets lined with a remnant from this project.  

Top stitching/buttonhole twist was used for both the CF topstitching and hem, including threaded through the Coverstitch without a hitch. 

All seam finishes are in Apple Green thread, also unearthed during tidying, of which inexplicably I have FOUR spools of. Obviously, all seam finishes this winter will be in Apple Green.  
What?  Oh, like you've never done it. . .

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I placed the exterior patch pockets on the inside, omitted the back vent and fly front, belt carriers and most of the top stitching, mostly because I am lazy.  I wish I had omitted the front darts.  Next time.  I used an invisible zip in the CB seam.  I top stitched the CF seam and hem only.  This pattern has a touch curvier hip in it than my IRL do, so I sliced off about 1/4" from the side seams from about my hip bone to top of my thigh.  I've a more hourglass in me southern patokus region, rather than the Dita Von Teese side-hip va-va-voom, even though our total circumference may be the same.  Due to the fabric's stretchiness, I made sure to remember to stabilize the waistline seam with 1/4" twill tape.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes and yes.  I've used this skirt pattern several times.  I think it's a good choice for any stretch woven fabric. It's slim, sits at the waist without being suffocating and still comfy due to it having some stretchy give.  I haven't made the pants.
My curves go front-to-back, not hourglass side-to-side like Dita's
I am Savage

Conclusion:  Tidying up and shoveling out all those scraps may have only reduced the fabric stash by a smidge but I can find my scissors now.  However, muslin-making should be far less chaotic.  There's even a little bin (the little folding fabric bin thingy mentioned above) for knit toile fabric - which are mostly old knit sheets, BTW. And there's even room in the garage to set the laundry basket down without having to put it on top of the car.  I may not have the life of Dita, but I am certainly the Mistress of My Muslins.

A final note on too-small-to-use scraps:  If ONE of you suggests quilting - Do. Not. Go. There.

I don't quilt.

1 comment:

  1. This made me laugh and laugh as my scraps are threatening to drown me! I have considered a quilt but might take your advice! I love your skirt btw - that topstitching!!