The Movie, the Plot & the Dress: Oh, the things that go on behind closed doors! Our Heroine intends to seduce her captive beau. She enters the scene as demure and cool as the ice white of her pearls only to begin a slow bit of strip tease. Off with her gloves and hat, then her jacket in one casual move. Oh, swoosh! Instantly, her creamy shoulders and back are bare for the enjoyment of her captive audience of one. All the more sexy to lure in her prey. This woman has a plan. Our heroine has chosen a belted haltertop dress with a white front wrap bodice and an attached skirt of Nile Green. Oh, you thought it was a separate blouse and skirt? No, our girl will be out of her attire with no more than a quick zip down the back. She's a fast worker, this one is.
Washable Wonder Tape aids in pinless rolling. This seam allowance is 5/8ths to allow for roll of the cloth.
6. Construct neck/armscye bands with 1/4" seam allowance, stitching long edge and back edges only. Clip copiously between notches, turn, press and baste wrong side to wrong side to hold. Washable Wonder Tape works wonders here and negates the need for pins or thread basting.
Top Tip: For perfect points, try this little trick from Pam at off-the-cuff-style.blogspot.com. Scroll down her page for the "Perfect Collar Points...A Shirtmaker's "Secret" Technique." It's pretty fab.
7. Sew darts in bodice back, both fashion fabric and lining. Butterfly darts by pressing fashion fabric darts towards the center back seam and lining darts towards side seams. On the bodice lining only, baste a 5/8ths stitching line on side seams.
8. Sew darts in skirt back, both fashion fabric and lining. Butterfly darts by pressing fashion fabric darts towards the center back seam and lining darts towards side seams.
9. Sew fashion fabric bodice back to skirt back at waistline from center back seam to back darts only. Repeat for lining. Insert invisible zipper in fashion fabric center back seam. On the lining, baste off 3/8" down each center back seam of the lining the length of zipper tape. Set lining aside.
10. Sew fashion fabric bodice fronts to back at side seams. Grade seams and press towards back.
11. Baste armscye/neckbands to bodice, underside of band to right side of bodice. Baste bias tape over same from neck to 1" beyond side seam and stitch through all layers in a 1/4" seam. Press, clip and turn bias tape to inside.
13. Stop and have a cocktail. You've earned it.
14. Place bodice fronts your right over your left, matching center front and side-front markings. Baste pleats through both layers on dotted lines only. Stitch pleats through both layers by folding along baste lines, matching markings. Press towards side seams.
16. Sew fashion fabric skirt to bodice at waistline from back dart to back dart.
17. Repeat for skirt lining, right sides together, sandwiching the fashion fabric in between between, (flip the skirt lining "up") stitch at waistline through all thicknesses. Flip the skirt lining down, grade seams and press.
The skirt lining was machine hemmed 1" shorter than the skirt hem.
Place smooth side of eyelet on the crimping tool. Top Tip: put a bit of cloth between the smooth side of the eyelet and the crimping tool to reduce abrasion on the face of the eyelet. you'll need to make a hole in the scrap fabric to slip over the pin of the crimping tool.